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asked Jul 30 "17 at 14:18
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There room two viewpoints to your situation with powering the house:The conventional method is to use a feeder-breaker and also subpanel setup. This works, and also is pretty much guaranteed come be welcomed by her AHJ when done correctly, yet has the disadvantage the it requires a huge (200A) branch breaker in the out panel, which have the right to be problematic in some cases, such together yours.The much more streamlined albeit less conventional approach is to use subfeed lugs to feeding the inside subpanel. This has some advantages (it"s cheaper in your case for one) however could reason an inspector not supplied to seeing a "daisy-chain" the panelboards (this kind of feed-through construction is much more common in commercial job-related than that is in residential) to complain also though it"s Code-compliant.
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What you"ll desire to install because that both cases
Either way you go, you"ll need to run 4 wires in conduit in between the 2 panels. The hot and also neutral wires will certainly be 250kcmil aluminum, if the ground (if her conduit is plastic) will be a 6AWG bare copper wire (this conserves on conduit fill). The conduit will need to be 2" minimum v a 2.5" conduit preferred; EMT or rigid steel is recommended, yet PVC can be used if you"re willing to toss the ground wire in there. In the indoor panel, the hot conductors land on the key lugs or main breaker there, if the neutral floor on the neutral lug and also the ground (if present/necessary) floor on the soil lug. Outside, the neutral floor on an add-on neutral lug (a TNLK250) attached to the neutral bar and also the floor (if necessary) lands on the floor bar.
Running this connection via the route that yields the shortest route with the fewest bends is wise, by the way. I would route out the back of the out panel making use of a suitably sized (no shorter than six times the diameter that the conduit used) LB (a Crouse-Hinds LBNEC7 works, because that instance), then make a straight shot into the inner panel from the LB if at every possible. Less wire, less pulling, much less hassle.
The systematized way
I"ll start with the systematized approach, due to the fact that it"s tho going to it is in cheaper and easier most likely than the an ext typical approach in your case.
What you are trying to carry out is generally done in advertisement applications using what are well-known as feed-through lugs in advertising panelboards to feeding a 2nd panelboard straight from the busbars that the very first without any kind of intervening switch, fuse, or breaker. However, if loadcenters don"t have actually true feed-through lugs available, a collection of suitably rated subfeed lugs can be supplied instead.
As to actually placing it together, girlfriend would usage a collection of THLK2200 subfeed lugs in the out panel and also attach the hot wires come the subfeed lugs. This leaves the service equipment outside, and also creates a lug-fed subpanel at the within location, with the bonding screw/strap eliminated from the inside subpanel, the course.
The standard approach
In the traditional approach, we use a 200A feeder breaker to create a independently switched feeder and subpanel device here. The forced breaker is a GE TQDL21200 (or equivalently a Midwest electrical CB2200B); however, lock are relatively rare/hard-to-find. The wiring, that course, is the very same as above, just with the breaker rather of the subfeed lug kit.
As come the shop feeder
Once you have the house out the the way, then we deserve to talk around powering increase the shop. Over 120", 1/0 AWG aluminum have the right to be provided either in the kind of separation, personal, instance wires in Schedule 80 PVC or a four-wire type SE cable rated for direct burial. The ground cable in the feeder requirements to it is in a minimum of 8AWG copper and a ground connection electrode (ground rod) will need to be moved at the shop and connected come the shop subpanel by an 8AWG copper wire.
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The outdoor dashboard will obtain a THQL21100 feeder breaker and also a TNLK20 neutral lug to accommodate this, if the shop will require its very own subpanel with the bonding jumper pulled and also the shop grounding electrode conductor landed on the soil bar in addition to the feeder ground. The feeder neutral soil on the neutral bar, if the feeder hots land on the line-side terminals of whatever the disconnecting means in the subpanel is -- it might be a main breaker or a backfed disconnecting an equipment fitted through a hold-down kit. In the main panel, the shop feeder hots floor on the lugs the the feeder breaker, when the shop feeder neutral floor on the included neutral lug, and also the shop feeder ground floor on the ground bar together usual.